JetBlack Volt EMS Direct Drive Smart Turbo Trainer

Product Information

Read more: Elite Direto XR-T smart trainer full review Buyer's guide to smart indoor trainers What are the different types of turbo trainer?

Next, from a technology standpoint, they fixed the sprint overshooting issue this summer. In fact, both the H1 and H2 trainers got that firmware update – but it meant this was more accurate now. Overall, I’m pretty darn happy with accuracy here. While there were some early firmware reports of very small amounts of drift, I don’t see that at all on current firmware, or during any of my testing. Accuracy appears to easily be greater than the claimed +/- 2.5% figure that the company has for their tech specs, and seems to be closer to the +/- 1% variants we see on many higher-end trainers. It’s easy enough to set up, simply requiring you to attach the legs to the resistance unit with the supplied Allen key. There’s no cassette in the box though, so you’ll have to get one of those before you can start riding. The max power is 800 watts, and max incline is 6% which will be enough for most riders, although some stronger cyclists may well find they max it out during a full pelt sprint, or find it slightly wanting on a climb. What surprised me though, was that after around five minutes, the feeling faded totally; it had simply become the norm. There's no denying that the more premium trainer is slightly nicer to ride, but that muscle memory of how a trainer should feel through the legs shifted, and I no longer felt as though I was missing anything.The most basic turbo trainers, these use magnetic resistance to imitate the feel of the road, and are generally the cheapest due to their simplicity. There are, however, few smart versions available. Usually supplied with a manual resistance changer, their smart capabilities aren't as varied as others and can't be programmed to replicate a certain gradient or power resistance. At 14.8kg, it's portable enough, but with no carry handle or folding legs, it's best left in situ if you can. Example: H3 can be made to match my Giant Power Pro cranks by using the small chain ring in 8th gear at 225W but when i drop to 95 watts the descrepancy is 12W average. As the gearing increases from here the discrepancy at each power gets worse. Follow this link for DCrRainmaker Analyzer report. link to analyze.dcrainmaker.com ANT+ FE-C (Trainer Control): This is for controlling the trainer via ANT+ from apps and head units (with cadence/power data). Read tons about it here. Hey Ray. You might tweak the “entry level” units section – the wording seems identical to previous years’ where multiple trainers were on the list (“…this is the one category I don’t have a ton of riding time on either of those units. Both of them have been at trade shows or the like…”) but there’s only ONE on the list now.

Hovers around 60db in my tests. While average in comparison, it's still quieter than drivetrain noise and not a problem with neighbours or family members. The reality is that all these freehubs, cassettes and bearings on wheels or trainers have manufacturing tolerance. As such, the precise location of a cassette (essentially the final left-right location) dictates when there may or may not need to be a rear derailleur alignment adjustment made. It’s quite common to need a small adjustment (barrel adjuster for mechanical cable, trim on electronic) when you swap between wheels or trainers. I have posted this in Tuo review, but thought will drop this also here as it might be useful for some folks.

Hence why I use US pricing as the baseline. As always, situations might vary that make it a better deal.