10mm Steel Corset Boning with Plastic Coating - by The metre or Cut to Custom Length

Product Information

This boning type is commonly used in strapless ready-to-wear formalwear. Generally, it is stitched onto a firm cotton underlining that is then sewn into the gown. It can be stitched directly to the fashion fabric, but that is not a common method. I’ve seen as many as 19 pieces applied vertically on a bodice starting from the top edge through the waist and ending at the high hip. Rigilene supports the bodice structure and gives light shape to the body. You can buy metal boning by the yard or meter or in precut lengths. If you need to shorten metal boning.

10 Types Of Corset Boning For Historical Corsetry - Sew

Figure 15, Center the casings along the seam lines or dart lines, and pin to the bodice. Pin all of the casings in place. Edgestitch on either side of the casing, through the original casing stitch lines, with your sewing machine. (Figure 15) Sometimes the casings are sewn to the outside as a design feature, as seen in corsets or foundation garments. Uses: Specially created for giving shape and support to strapless garments, theatrical costumes, evening wear, beachwear, and soft toys.Spiral steel boning, as the name suggests, features a spiral shape that grants it a remarkable degree of flexibility. This boning is really good for corsets that need to bend and twist, so they can move with your body and how it naturally moves.

Boning | Fabric Land Boning | Fabric Land

Sometimes you will even see boning sewn on an angle to help support the lines of the garment. You won’t be able to see the boning from the right side of the garment, but you may see the top stitching lines of each casing. And in the Regency and Victorian era before the invention of corset busks, wood like oak was often used for the busk on the front of the corset. Selecting the appropriate boning for your corset depends on factors such as the intended purpose of the corset, the desired level of support, and the aesthetic you wish to achieve. There's plastic boning, which is flexible and comfy, making it great for everyday wear. You'll also need to cover the ends of each boning strip to keep it from tearing through the fabric. There are small metal caps available for that purpose and a rubber-like dip that dries onto the metal. I've used the metal caps and they work well, but are fiddly to get on. The dip should protect the metal from rust (at least in theory), but I have no experience with that. Spiral steel boningFirst think about what kind of shape you want: How much you want to cinch your waist (if at all)? What shape around the bust (more like the top of a dress, or cut like a bra)? A historical recreation, or something more modern? For example this corset is cut less like lingerie, and more like an evening top, and it is not designed to cinch my waist.

Boning for Dressmaking: Types, Uses and Sewing Technique Boning for Dressmaking: Types, Uses and Sewing Technique

According to the manufacturers catalogue this type of boning is " 100% plastic, is machine washable and possesses good spring characteristics, therefore returning to its original shape without any tendency to kink". Note: I have seen this type of boning being confused with plastic 'multi bones' from the same manufacturer, which are made from spun polyester and are not the same as synthetic boning as they are described in the catalogue as being "extremely soft". Historically, corsets were stiffened with whalebone (baleen), whalebone substitutes – such as horn and featherbone – and later flat steel boning. There are different types of boning. Boning are used to build a structure in dressmaking. In the earlier period boning are specially used in corset and bodice. But now boning are used in different kind of garments. I could go on but it should be clear by now that steel is the most comfortable material you can use for corset boning. Having said that, there are a few situations in which I think plastic boning is suitable; such as single/occasional use, party or stage costumes, and delicate lingerie where the item will need regular hand washing and the bone won’t cover the bend at the waist – the side of a wide banded bra or a garter belt for example.Learn two armscye seam finishes that don't require a serger. One is hand-sewn and the other can be done on a conventional sewing machine, but both navigate an armscye's curved… Figure 14, Take the boning out of its casings. You’ll have curly plastic strips. To straighten out the boning pieces, fill a shallow dish with boiling water and drop the plastic pieces into the water. Leave the boning in the hot water for five to ten minutes, using a mug or dish to hold the pieces under water. Take the pieces out and press them flat under something heavy while they cool off. (If you’re not able to soften the boning in hot water, alternate the direction of the curl as you insert each piece into its casing so that they don’t curve the same way. Over time they should straighten out.) (Figure 14) Rigilene or precovered boning works for this method. Sew either Rigilene or the boning casing to the pressed-open side seam allowance by centering it over the seam and stitching down one side at a time without catching the garment face. Boning is frequently seen in strapless dresses, halter tops, structured bodices, corsets, foundation garments and other tight-fitting garments.