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GAMES WORKSHOP Citadel Pot de Peinture - Shade Casandora Yellow (24ml)

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After that the whole mini was drybrushed lightly with Necron Compound all over with Emphasis being placed on Metallic Edges such as the Shoulders and Gorget. I use Vallejo Surface Primer for most priming work. Its easy to apply with a regular brush or airbrush. I’m not a fan of the look of the facemasks on the helmets, so I snipped these on all the models. I knew this would make painting the mouth area a lot easier too, which was already going to be fiddly. The models were primed with a product that is probably only available in the UK, Halfords grey primer. This is just a standard matt grey primer that gives a nice finish and is considerably cheaper than the GW option. Wilko do a similar one, and with a little research I’m sure wherever in the world you are you can find a cheap priming solution that works just as well. Ultimately, I’ve discovered that I prefer using a regular brush more than airbrushing most of the time. Even though painting yellow across large models is still easier with an airbrush (see this 3D printed Imperial Fist Assault Tank paint job), I feel more accomplished when I finish a miniature painting with a regular brush.

For myself, I’m looking for a decent tabletop quality paint job. Citadel Contrast Color paints along with a good dry brush (2-3 layers to even out the raised surfaces and add highlight) is all I need. 6. Add accent colors I was really torn over how to paint my Lizards. I didn’t have a particular team theme in mind because they would probably see more tourney action than league play, and all I really knew was I probably wasn’t going to paint their skin blue, because I’m contrary like that. Looking at all angles of your model, make sure your dry brush covers only the raised surfaces of your miniature. This is the key thing you want to do when you’re looking to add that “extra dimension” to your miniature. 5. Add highlights with dry brushingCongrats if you have followed the tute up to this step. Your model is done. You and it are great. Go celebrate this greatness! TheChirurgeon’s Method This will be called something different in other places. Go to your hardware store and show them a few photos from this article and you’ll be fine. For myself, even if I’m aiming for a tabletop ready paint job, I need some semblance of completion in the form of a few details.

The key here is to leave a good area flat area for your models to stand on, then some interesting shapes as required.Lizzie: Contrast paints are an incredible tool for any painter. Whether you are a complete beginner or an experienced hobbyist, these paints are easy to use and highly versatile – allowing you to create a number of fantastic effects. Thanks for the insight Lizzie! Many of these new paints differ from the bulk of the existing Contrast range in exciting new ways, opening up many possibilities for painters, new and old. Imperial Fist takes up the gauntlet thrown down by Nazdreg Yellow and Iyanden Yellow, pushing the pigment further and making yellow even more of a breeze to paint. Verdict: Dry compounds do what they say. But are they really needed? As mentioned above, I’ve rather had more bright layer paints for more flexibility. The tones of the dry compounds are all very light, so I recommend drybrushing them over a dark basecoat first and add a wash or shade second, which not only tints those bright highlights but also helps to conceal the typical cloudy effect drybrushing creates. Textures As I mentioned, this is a fantastic horde base. It doesn’t require any real crafting or planning, and can easily be done in batches. If you don’t like how one particular base turned out, don’t throw it away. Go ahead and use it, and try different paint/wash/drybrush ratios on the next base. Once they are sitting next to 50+ other models with similar bases, they all blend together and any imperfections are entirely lost.

And yes, I am talking about painting straight out of the pots, heresy, I know. but, you can use a pallet if you want, especially if you're using dropper bottle paints. Though I'd almost go so far as to recommend a dry pallet at first till you have more experience in the glaze-to-paint ratios. Let me be the thousandth person to say how annoying it is having to fill the slotta holes on the bases that are supplied. This is really lazy stuff by GW now, with none of their BB kits having slotta stands, and makes mounting some of these models in the best spot on their base much more painful than it needs be

When I’m painting miniatures, I tend to take pauses to make sure my progress is going in the direction I originally planned. At the end of it, you should have a smooth consistent yellow base that you can then shade or highlight as you choose. Every once in a while, make sure to rinse the brush in the clean water, even with the glaze being used regularly, the layer paint is gonna wanna dry a little on the brush, use the paper towel to remove excess water from the brush after, and take it from the top again. With the new layer paints Games Workshop caught up with their competitors. The consistency is similar to the old Citadel Colours, so quite thin, you need to add almost no water. There are no such paint separation problems as you’ve got with Vallejo or Reaper Master Series, and just a little bit of shaking is sufficient. The paint water down, blend and mix nicely, and as they don’t dry as fast anymore, so you’ve got more time to apply your highlights. When dry, the finish is as matt as the old Citadel paints. The coverage of the paints I tried was average. Not bad, but not breath-taking either and certainly not worse. Just what you would expect when you’re familiar with the old range. Of course, as an alternative to using Citadel Contrast paint, you can wash your model in a bright yellow ink. Then, wash it again with a shading ink or wash like orange or brown. But, then you’ll be adding more steps to your project. What you’re looking for in your first coat of primer is a very smooth surface. The smoother your early priming layers, the easier it will be to paint the rest of the model. Make sure mold lines are removed and you don’t create any bubbles in your primer. Yellow is already a flaky, unreliable color. Don’t add to your troubles with a poor primer foundation.

A supercharged alternative to Warp Lightning, Karandras Green is one of the most intense Contrast paints in the whole range. Screaming Skull (bone) can be used as a highlight color to add depth to the yellow and create contrast between light and shadow. Layers are your regular acrylic paint and thus the successors of the Citadel Colours. I always felt the regular Citadel paints were the weak spot of the old paint range. They dried very fast and often thinned down unevenly, both issues that made layering and blending quite hard. There were some great colours, especially the silvers, but all in all both Vallejo, Reaper and Privateer Press had paints with better coverage and a easier to use consistency. They did this rudimentary with the blue greens, which all have Dark Eldar themed names ( Incubi Darkness– base, Kabalite Green and Sybarite Green– layer, Hellion Green – dry compound), but otherwise there are a lot of inconsistencies. E.g. when you want to paint a flat blue, you’ve got Macragge Blue, Altdorf Guard Blue and Calgar Blue from dark to light – two Ultramarine and one Empire themed name. The inconsistent naming is very confusing, especially when you look at all those greens – there are Death World Forest, Castellan Green, Straken Green, Elysian Green and Camo Green, all muted greens that look very similar on those official colour swatches and all share Guard themed names. They could had given one line of greens Wood Elf themed names and the other one Guard themed names for example. Or they could have gone even further with paint names like “Cadian Armour Base”, “Cadian Armour Midtone” and “Cadian Armour Highlight” which would have made it really easy to understand which paints belong together, especially for the novice and younger painters. For most of my Imperial Fist army, I used regular acrylic model paints. But, then I discovered Citadel’s Contrast Colours, which speed up the base coating process. I review Citadel Contrast colors here.

Coda’s Davonic Badlands Extravaganza

For this project, I used an airbrush to coat my models with gray Vallejo surface primer in a spray booth.

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