CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bits, 1/2 inch Shank 2 inch Cutting Diameter, Slab Flattening Router Bit Planing Bit Wood Milling Cutter Planer Woodworking Tool by NITOMAK (Carbide)

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Build up with heat resistant Teflon coating which can reduce resin build-up for fast and easy cleaning.

It looks to me like either the slab or the router/sled is not staying level as you move it or at least between passes.The above really overshadow anything else, but additional issues relate to the parallel bars you're envisaging using, including how they'll be attached to the board, how you'd ensure they are parallel to each other and then parallel the opposite face of the board. Read more about the condition New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is applicable). Reiterating what has been said and adding a bit to bring all the tips together in one place: Your guide rails have to be very straight, parallel to each other, and well anchored in place.

I use a 25mm CMT bit, and for the first 2 or 3 runs I cut heavy, maybe around an 1/8th, then as I get closer to final level, I make much shallower passes, like a 1/16th or less. Would you get less tearout for example, if you work outside ->in, moving in a counterclockwise direction? Also, like Nathan said, everything needs to be rigid and fixed against movement for your slab and your side rails. The main thing you'll need to be careful about, beyond keeping your fingers away from the bit, is to always be aware of where the wood that you're removing is in relation to the bit. exposing a large and very dangerous bit sticking up unguarded from the table, so personal safety strike two!

That said, the method saved the piece, as we could micro-adjust it to eliminate wind with minimum waste - putting it through a planer without a sled would almost certainly have been a disaster. If you are looking for a "perfect" finish from the router, it's not likely to happen without an absolutely perfect setup, and a lot of skill. wings make a fast and clean cut on your project material, great for projects of any level of complexity.

I’m getting ready to build a router sled to flatten slabs and other boards, I don't have a jointer big enough. Use range suitable for woods, particle board, MDF, plywood compact panel, acrylic; Avoid cutting ferrous metal and non wood materials, iron, etc. If you move the router lengthwise down the slab (with the grain), you are really cutting across the grain with the leading edge of the bit.While these difficulties can undoubtedly be resolved it's a lot of futzing about when the stated goal is to make the job easier. This would put a fairly small limit to your work piece, being about a quarter in area than your router table size (or at most half if you rotate the work piece around).

I looked at the Woodpecker jig at a woodworking show in January and it looked pretty well thought out and engineered.If you were to try to do this freehand, by just moving the workpiece over the bit without a fence, it would be very easy to inadvertently make a climb cut, which could cause the workpiece to move suddenly in a direction you don't expect. USE RANGE for CNC ROUTER BIT: Suitable for solid woods, mdf, laminate, particle board, plywood compact panel, acrylic and etc. You can of course chuck this style of bit into a router mounted in a table and I can envisage some potential uses for it 1, but to then use it for the intended purpose — flattening an end-grain cutting board — would be a bad idea for multiple reasons. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average.