Cooler Master COSMOS C700M - ARGB Aluminium Case with Dual Curved Glass Doors, Ultra-Modular Frame and Extreme Hardware Capacity - Full Tower

Product Information

Once you remove the filters, covers, and shrouds (very easy) working in this case is a walk in the park.

In the course of the building experience, I ran across a few issues with my sample. Unboxing this monster, I heard the sound of a number of screws falling, and sure enough found five of them in the bottom of the box. These screws fell off of the case's rear panel, which was held on by just two screws. The panel had almost detached itself from the case during transport. Chalk it up to an early sample.

Cooler Master's new Cosmos is out of this world.

Cooler Master went the extra mile with all of these air pathways, adding dust filters to help keep the inside of your case from silting up. Just note: If you decide to go chimney, get ready for a job within a job. You'll be removing and reinserting a lot of screws. And then some more. Perk up a pot of coffee and charge your power screwdriver before you undertake that job. It's an Erector-set session on top of a PC build. I had to partially remove the top portion of the case to free up the panel and was able to mount it correctly using a couple of screws from a collection of spares. But the panel had some scratches, and the plastic was slightly damaged. None of this would be visible with the case shut, but given this case's price...no scratches, please. I have had the flagship Cooler Master HAF-X case since the day it was released in 2010. It is now 2019 and after upgrading my first gen i7 990x to the new i9 9900k, new motherboard, ram, and gpu I figured it was time to upgrade the case as well.

Your feelings about them may vary (mine are mixed), but they function as handles and are invaluable for moving this behemoth around. It's still challenging to budge with them (and I hate to imagine moving it without them), so I'm glad they are there. These bars also have a positive effect on airflow, as the lower pair holds the true bottom of the case about 1.5 inches off the desk or floor. We recently validated our test methodology using a thermal chamber, finding our approach to be nearly perfectly accurate. Learn more here. Thermals & Noise Credo non si possa chiedere di più, il mio sistema è sempre fresco e molto ben arieggiato. Vi posso dire che tra ventole messe al minimo oppure alla massima rotazione cambia poco e niente in termini di temperature, questo significa aver fatto un gran lavoro sui flussi d'aria. Pre-installed: 3x 140 mm (front, 4-pin PWM, max 1,200 rpm), 1x 140 mm (rear, 4-pin PWM, max 1,200 rpm) The rear panel of the case is unremarkable, but it is surrounded by some removable plastic trim that's held on by magnets. I can't see any reason to remove this panel often, so it would have been better had Cooler Master screwed on this panel instead of connecting it with magnets. In my sample, it falls off easily when nudged, and I noticed a lot of flex on this piece...As for performance: either use the fancy front panel shell or the internal filter. Don’t use both. There’s no point to having two layers of filtration, and one or the other will do just fine. With that in mind, cooling performance with air-cooled GPUs is great, while air-cooled CPUs may get warm sitting in the middle of the vast space between the intake and exhaust fans. Many buyers of this case will probably also invest in liquid cooling, and there’s plenty of space for radiators in the top and front of the case. For pure all-around performance, we’ve recommended much cheaper cases like the Silverstone PM01 in the past. The C700M is great in terms of build quality and looks for those that can afford it, but don’t make the mistake of thinking that buying a more expensive case means more effective cooling. Load testing is conducted using Prime95 LFFTs and Kombustor “FurMark” stress testing simultaneously. Testing is completely automated using in-house scripting, and executes with perfect accuracy on every run. Underneath the right panel is another panel, designed to contain and cover many of the wires that connect to the front I/O panel. Ordinarily this panel is held on with screws, but the review unit came with this panel jammed in diagonally with no screws holding it on...

Powering up the case illuminates lines of RGB LEDs that follow the seam between the metal portion in the middle of the case and the plastic... is a bit louder than the C700P but not significantly so, even though the C700M has an additional fan. Taking the front panel cover off with the fans still at full speed raised dBA to 42.3, one of the noisier results on the chart, but understandable. If this proves anything, it’s that the front panel shell at least does a good job of muffling fan noise. ConclusionOtherwise, it's an excellent compromise versus the optical-drive situation in most cases today: either no bays (fine, if you don't need one), or a bay or two that many users don't use and that's thus a visual detraction. This way, you don't see a drive on the outside of the case. C'è tutto lo spazio per gestire i cablaggi dal retro, la parte sotto contenente l'alimentatore si chiude lasciando tutti i componenti liberi dal passaggio di cavi. This is an amazing case and I bought it several months ago. I like that it's huge, I like the aesthetics of it -- it literally looks like it came out of a Tron movie. Very high quality parts, and incredibly modular. In this situation, I got what I paid for, even from a build quality only perspective. The built-in lighting is about as good as it gets for ARGB LEDs. The lighted strips around the edges of the case are divided into three sections: top, front, and bottom. There’s no internal lighting, but the external lighting bounces off the inside of the top and bottom rails in a way that’s really pretty cool. Each section is plugged into Cooler Master’s combined fan and LED controller PCB. There are a decent number of baked-in colors and patterns that don’t require external control, but there’s a header to accept motherboard control as well. Fans can be set to high, medium, low, or mobo control, but as usual we plugged all fans directly into the motherboard for testing. The LEDs in the front panel are connected via some gold pins at the bottom that automatically plug in and disconnect with the panel, which we vastly prefer to dainty little cables that get torn out. Our one complaint is the front panel controls for the fans/LEDs. Each is controlled with a pair of + and - buttons, but each pair is covered by a single shell which is marked in three places, and status is indicated by multiple LEDs that aren’t all labelled clearly. It’s easy to operate, but it could be more intuitive.