Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan Unisex Eau de Parfum 50 ml

Product Information

Reminiscent of a piece of amber wax found by Serge Lutens at random while strolling through the souks of Marrakech, forgotten in a cedar box and found years later, it marks the return to the identity and authenticity of raw materials.

He would remember this a few years later in 1980 when he signed a collaboration with Shiseido that would allow this Japanese cosmetics group, hitherto unknown on the international scene, to impose a visual identity so powerful that it would become one of the global market players in the 80s and 90s. What are your thoughts about Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan ? Have you tried it? Do you like it?Let’s start a conversation and let me know in the comment section below.

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Flemish artists render the amber shades exceptionally well, hence two still lifes to accompany today’s post. The first one is by Osias Beert The Elder (1580 – 1623/24). The second is by Peter Boel (1622-1674). Because also the durability fits excellently with everything so far; everything develops comfortably; not obtrusive, quite noble and comfortable. The same applies here since it comes in the same presentation as with other Serge Lutens fragrances. Take your senses on a journey with the Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan Eau de Parfum. Wander through the streets of Marrakech and uncover hidden treasures with this aromatic scent, marking a return to a focus on the identity and authenticity of unique ingredients. Rich and exotic like a fragment of amber resin, the fragrance is not an Oriental, but an Arab and a Lutens.

Ambre sultan Eau de Parfum starts right away with this warm spicy orientalism, which accompanies him all the time - and after a short time a special feature creeps in, a tone that can be better described with the English funky than with the German Animalik, because it hits it less. I’m yet to receive a compliment or a comment of any kind regarding this one, and this is understandable. It is not one of those easy-to-wear designers or niche perfumes. In 1967, Christian Dior, who was about to launch his make-up line, called on him. He will create for this house colors, style, and images. His vision is finally unified by photography. At the start of the 1970s, the famous editor-in-chief of US Vogue, Diana Vreeland, did not hesitate to proclaim her enthusiasm: “Serge Lutens, Revolution of Make-up!”. The success is resounding. Serge Lutens becomes the symbol of freedom given by make-up for a whole new generation. In 1974, echoing his taste for cinema and the mythical actresses who inhabit it, he directed a short film: “Les Stars”. At that time, he traveled and discovered Morocco and then Japan. These two countries, with such rich and different cultures, will come together in him and will affirm his way of seeing and feeling.

Ambers are crowd pleasers, the Golden Retrievers of the perfume world, ready to encompass you with a warm, furry greeting and a wag of the metaphorical tail. Granted, some are easier to love than others, and there is always someone who would rather not, but generally speaking the amber aims to please. Here are some of my favorites. But Monsieur Lutens doesn't make it that easy for us. In between there are more and more dry to dusty notes, possibly coming from oregano. At least I can see in my mind's eye these rather dry leaves as they are sprinkled over the hot pizza from the oven. But in addition I see a small cloud of wood dust ... The atomizer can be removed by hand, which is a good thing if you are interested in decanting perfumes, but ultimately means that the Serge Lutens fragrances won’t last long enough as a perfume bottle with an industrially placed atomizer.

Another winner among the blended ambers is Nobile 1942’s Ambra Nobile, with its mix of warm amber, licorice, and sandalwood. I have only a tiny vial of this and want more. Lovers of lavender will appreciate Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. The lavender opens the show, but is immediately followed by nutmeg, vanilla, and a delicious balsamic amber. I can even forgive this perfume its ugly red bottle with the hideously huge bejeweled cap.The resins (Benzoe and Labdanum belong to my favorites meanwhile) provide the slightly sweetish depth and spices (Here Koreander and Oregano, which clearly perceptibly weave through the course) lift it up again and make sure that the scent does not sink one-dimensionally hard, as it is unfortunately often the case with many less thoughtfully composed Orientals. To my nose, the time the scent starts to meld into the heart notes, the scent experience is more of an aged oak barrel containing fine Scottish whiskey, and that is coming from the cistus note that comes from the same plant as labdanum. Ambre Sultan is an aromatic oriental fragrance for men and women. The perfumer behind this fragrance is Christopher Sheldrake, and it was launched in 1993, and 2000 worldwide.

Would I recommend Ambre Sultan as the reference amber today? Maybe, but more than likely not. Ambre Sultan straddles the line between classic and contemporary well enough to feel timeless, which is a great virtue, and it feels more complete to me than some of the others that get nearly as much attention. In that regard, you gotta give it credit. Ambre Sultan will never not smell glorious to me, though. The love child of a Christmas tree and a lump of cassonade, it smells like a golden resin melting down on your skin on a hot day, then hardening again like a layer of shellac. It is light and dark all at once, its breathy presence one of dusty books, sunlit herbs, burnt incense, and polished wood. One must be aware that this type of fragrance will wear you if you don’t find it comfortable while wearing it. The scent that brings out attention, and is one of those “ you know who is the boss” types of fragrances. As time progresses, Ambre Sultan starts to lose its herbal qualities, and transitions into a resinous heart. The fragrance tails into the more subtly-sweet ambery accord with touches of animalic musks, and woody territory. What an incredibly balanced composition has the dear Solstice bottled for me for Christmas: thank you for that!A perfume line created by Serge Lutens in his own image. Minimalist, straight lined, angular and uncompromising, each of these bottles with their refined style reflects the exacting nature and character of their creator. A sobriety which enhances the richness and sumptuousness of the perfumes, whose scents and colours are as numerous and as nuanced as precious stones and our personalities. The warm, and tame base will remind you of many more expensive niche amber fragrances which obviously were “ inspired” by Ambre Sultan, just don’t recreate this kind of powerful experience. However, the dustiness is only temporary and after some time the eau de parfum becomes as oriental as it was thought. But just this twist makes Ambre sultan Eau de Parfum so incredibly pleasant, so exciting, so exciting - and so wearable!