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If you know how to fit skirting boards properly you are less likely to get gaps especially when it comes to internal skirting board joints — where skirting meets in a corner. A scribed joint will give you more flexibility and a tighter and better looking fit than a mitre joint. The first skirting board only needs a flat cut into the corner. The scribed skirting will fit neatly into the first skirting boards profile. (Image credit: Getty Images) When Should I Scribe Skirting Board? Lay the worktop down on a bench and clamp it securely. It is important it does not move a single mm during the cutting process. The joint you are going to cut needs to overhang the surface you are securing to. The image above shows a jig (made transparent) over a worktop ready for the female cut. Push the jig pins into the holes marked Front. This is shown as two red dots on the diagram. There's a little more work involved when it comes to more intricate designs such as ogee and torus, but it's still only one cut. Should Skirting Boards Touch The Floor? Set your router up with the correct guide and cutting blade. The guide is usually 30mm . We suggest a half inch router of minimum 1600W.
I have this new jig I recently built. I thought it was a unique jig to have in the shop. I wish I had this years ago when I first started experimenting with wood. If you want to return items that were bought more than 30 days ago, we may still accept the item but there may be an administrative charge and exclusions do apply, e.g. if the bullion has been cut to some requirements. However, please call our customer service team on 0345 100 1122 or [email protected]
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The easy answer is no. But it's not quite as straightforward as the answer suggests. It can depend on what type of flooring you are laying. For example, if putting down laminate flooring or tiles you want to leave a 2mm or 3mm expansion gap in case of any movement. Ideally you will lay the flooring first then install the skirting board. It is essential to have a perfect right angled cut on your worktop before you place the jig. The pins now allow the jig to be placed in the correct position for the cut. Clamp the jig into place making sure the clamps are not in the way of the router when you start cutting. Once both halves of the joint are made you can now choose to clamp the joints together if you wish. If the joint sits onto the top of a unit many fitters prefer to lay the worktop in two halves, pushing the joint together using adhesive and then screwing it tight up through the unit below. It is possible however to clamp the joint tight before placing the worktop or, if the area under the joint is clear, eg for a washing machine, the joint can be clamped in situ. We do not however recommend an unsupported joint. I decided to give this jig a name. I didn't put much thought into it. The first thing that came in my head was Max Cut. I named it MAX CUT 2 because I recently built one that could have used some improvement. When you have cut through the worktop on a rough cut, your final pass should be made with the guide or bush pressed against the edge nearest the worktop. This is the clean cut edge and this pass will take the final few mm off to give you a neat cut.
The guide bush sits into the slot in the jig and you start your cut with the bush pressed against the edge of the jig slot which is furthest away from the centre of the worktop. There are two cuts to make with every mitred joint. The female cut is the cut which is made in towards the centre of the worktop from the front edge of the worktop. The male cut protrudes from the front edge.
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You are now ready to turn the jig over, or round, to make the male cut. Use the pins as marked on the jig and follow the same procedure. It’s easier to do a scribe cut as you will need to do one cut and it is even easier if cutting more straightforward skirting types such as square edge, pencil round, chamfered and bullnose. In this Instructable, I want to share the MAX CUT 2. If you are a visual person like myself, I have a video, as well, that goes into greater detail. I am working on a limited tools' series for the viewers on youtube to get them started. This jig is a part of that series.
The worktop must be placed and clamped face side down to use the router to cut out the butterfly shaped holes for the worktop clamps. Clean the workbench properly first. The instructions for the clamp slots are on the jig. Once again make sure both the worktop and the jig are clamped tightly in position and do not try and cut out too much at a time. Trying to save 2 minutes could cost you a brand new worktop or router blade.Worktop jigs are made to be dual purpose for both cuts by simply turning them over or turning them round. The instructions for each cut are always placed on the face you need to be using and each hole or slot is marked for its appropriate use.
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