Fujifilm XF10-24 mm F4 R Optical Image Stabiliser Lens

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In the end, a couple things could have changed my rating: 1; they could have made it cheaper. I got mine for 799, but it was on sale. 699-799 should be the starting range for this lens in the current state. 2; improved the optics/aperture ring. Were the optics better and the aperture ring more solid, or even one of those things, I could have bumped the rating a point. And if both were solid, I would have given it a 10. As it is, it's an 8. If you shoot raw and use non-manufacturer software to process the raw data into images, that software is unlikely to be able to correct the distortion as is done in-camera as JPGs. The Ahwahnee, Yosemite Valley, 8:41 AM. Fuji X-T1, Fuji 10-24mm at 10mm, f/4 at 1/8 hand held at Auto ISO 250, Athentech Perfectly Clear. Full Resolution. You are able to capture such a wide field and tell so much more of the story with a lens like this.

If you get out the microscope, there are none from 10-18mm, and only the slightest hint of yellow-blue fringes in the corners at 24mm. All of the manual controls on the XF 10-24mm f/4 feature the usual Fuji styling, function and accessibility. You can see the change in framing when zooming in to 24mm (36mm equivalent). Unfortunately, it's also possible to see more corner softening, especially noticeable in the trees, top left. (Image credit: Rod Lawton/Digital Camera World)The Fujifilm 10-24mm f4 R OIS WR is an excellent lens to walk around with all day. The 10-24mm is a blast to create with, yet it’s nearly as light as a prime lens. Weather-sealing means you can continue to shoot in the rain and snow. And as the sun goes down, stabilization will help keep you shooting too. All of the primes are serviceable on the X-E bodies. The XF 23mm F1.4 gets a little front-heavy and you can probably forget about one-handed use for long, but otherwise it’s ok. A Brief Zeiss Touit 12mm f/2.8 Handling Interlude Also, the OP asked about one lens, landscape travel lens. I don’t think Fuji makes such a lens because I don’t think 16 mm is ideal on the wide end if the focus is on landscape. If the OP had just said travel without specifying landscape then there are a number of one lens solutions.

The 10-24mm isn't a dedicated macro lens, offering only 0.16x magnification with a minimum close-focusing range of 24cm (around 10 inches). As I have already pointed out earlier, unlike its modern counterparts, the lens is not weather-sealed. This means you have to be extra careful when using the lens in extreme conditions, especially when it is very humid. When shooting in very rainy conditions in New Zealand, the front element of my lens fogged up a little. I put it away and let it dry up, and the moisture disappeared. So keep this in mind when shooting in the field – you might end up permanently damaging the lens.If you're not getting ultra-sharp pictures with this, be sure not to shoot at f/11 or smaller where all lenses are softer due to diffraction, always shoot at ISO 100 or below because cameras become softer at ISO 200 and above, avoid shooting across long distances over land which can lead to atmospheric heat shimmer, be sure everything is in perfect focus, set your camera's sharpening as you want it (I set mine to the maximum) and be sure nothing is moving, either camera or subject. If you want to ensure a soft image with any lens, shoot at f/16 or smaller at ISO 1,600 or above at default sharpening in daylight of subjects at differing distances in the same image. Distortion is invisible, at least as shot as JPGs on my Fuji X-T1, which for all I know is correcting it automatically.