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As with most sewing tasks, good preparation really matters for achieving good results when you’re hand sewing buttonholes. Here I’ll cover how to mark your fabric, how to cut it open, and a couple of ways you can prepare the area before you start working your buttonhole stitches. Marking & drawing guidelines Thread your needle with buttonhole twist or topstitching thread and run it through beeswax. Melt it onto the thread using the warmth of your hands or a hot, dry iron.
As we said, a shank button differs from a standard button and then it doesn’t feature any buttonholes. Prepare the area by marking, cutting, and overcasting the raw edges as outlined in the section on preparation. Take a length of all-purpose polyester or cotton thread that is about 18” (45 cm) long. Run it through some beeswax, and either press it with a hot dry iron or melt the wax on the thread using the heat of your hands. Thread it through a small, sharp needle like a size 8 Sharps.The process of tufting has been with us for centuries. Long before coils and memory foam, mattresses were filled with feathers, cotton rags, and other materials. Tufting was used to keep this stuffing from shifting to one side or the other when the mattress was flipped. This thread has a cotton sheath, so be sure to clean the dust out of your machine after your project is finished. Work down the other long side, the same way as the first one, until you reach the second short end. Do you know of other efficient ways on how to sew a button? Share yours in the comments section below!
Insert your needle about 2 mm (less than ⅛”) away from the overcast edge, going from the bottom of the fabric to the top. Put your needle through the loop that is formed, and pull it through. Make sure to maintain the same orientation each time you’re going through the loop with your needle for even results. Go into your fabric about 1” (2.5 cm) away from the short, square end of your buttonhole. Come up through the buttonhole, keeping a tail that’s about 2” (5 cm).
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To sew a shank button on to a garment, start as before with 18 to 24 inches of thread, doubled and knotted. You can use less thread overall with a shank button if you wish though, as you won’t have to wrap the thread around itself to create the shank. Here's another comprehensive guide on how to sew a 2-hole, 4-hole, and shank button courtesy of Treasuri:
If your button is loose but still hanging on, you should use your cutting tool to take away the thread that’s still keeping the button on the shirt. A seam ripper will work best for this but you can also use a different type of cutting tool, just make sure that you’re not damaging the fabric of the shirt itself. Next, just use your cutting tool or your fingers to remove any excess old thread that still happens to be hanging on to either the button or the garment. Needle threader Thread Your Needle & Knot The End Of The Thread
You may need to reduce your machine’s tension if you choose to use this thread for machine basting. This is caused by uneven tension. As you’re pulling the threads to form the little knots at the edge of the fabric, try to keep an even tension between the stitches. Pull them just tightly enough that the little knot rests flatly against the edge of the fabric. It’ll get better with practice, so try making a few more practice buttonholes. This can happen when you’re trying to hand sew a buttonhole on a loosely woven fabric. Hand sewn buttonholes work best on tighter, more closed weaves. Make a single, straight cut on the vertical line connecting the two short horizontal lines. Try to keep your cut clean and straight. You can use a buttonhole chisel, a craft knife, a razor, or a small and sharp pair of scissors to make this cut. When you reach the rounded end, keep repeating the same stitch, slowly curving around the hole. Maintain an even distance of 2-3 mm (about ⅛”). You should also reposition your gimp here so that it’s following the rounded shape of this short end.
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