Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Liberator Gold

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Mix a ton of Lahmian Medium into Kabalite green. Do a few layers of this Starting at the mid point of one half of the sword. The at the same point, hit the otherside of the sword blade and go towards the tip. Continue to do layers of this, progressively moving away from the center of the sword. Thanks for reading, and keep your eyes peeled for part 2 in the next couple of weeks. In the mean time there’s the full Ballista crew video linked at the top of this post to keep you going. Basecoat with Night Lords Blue – The new Night Lords Blue is great. It’s a little more saturated than Kantor Blue, and it’s the right darkness level to start with. Give your primed mini two thin coats of Night Lords Blue, and put an extra thin layer on the top spots to make them a little bluer.

Hit rivets etc with Army Painter Soft Tone, be as precise as a laser guided bomb here. Use it sparingly. Do an EXTREMELY thin line of White Scar Air (I used the layer. The air would be so much easier though) in various bits. You can see my method of painting the white shoulder symbol on the Celestar Ballista crew video around the 17 minute mark. The brighter golds are rather wan-looking and have poor coverage. They need to be mixed with a tan/ochre (say about 1:1) for a first (and sometimes second) coat to help the next few gold-only coats look solid. They do produce a beautiful and realistic-looking gold if you are willing to spend the time on them though, and they are great for highlighting most other brands of gold paint too.I’m pretty happy with how this guy turned out, and I think the process is repeatable enough to do another three dozen times, not that I’m looking to do that. Working with Night Lords Blue is a lot easier than my prior methods, and it’s a great paint to use for the base coats.

Ok, now it’s time to paint the shoulder pad. I really dislike using transfers, and I hated how goofy the old Night Lords transfers looked and I hate trying to make transfers fit on rounded shoulder pads. So what I’ve been doing for the last few years is freehanding shoulder icons. And today, I’m going to show you how that process works for my night lords. Mix in some Stormhost Sliver in your Liberator Gold. Do a thicc highlight. Seriously almost layer it on. When the battle lines form and the rows of Stormcast Eternals charge, the Celestar Ballista adds a dose of firepower to cut down the enemies of Sigmar. With the size of the barrels you could easily mistake it for a quad-barrelled heavy bolter with some fancy mounting, but the ballista is worth it’s weight in plastic. A start to finish tutorial for the ballista can be found on our Youtube Channel, while the other crewman will be up as a video tutorial on 2nd March 2020.

Painting Night Lords

This is the first Warhammer 40,000 vehicle I’ve painted in the 21st Century! It began with a base of Leadbelcher Spray , followed by two layers of Dark Angels Green on the armour plates, I then edge-highlighted it with Waaagh! Flesh . I used Basilicanum Grey and Ratling Grime on the metals, with Iron Hands Steel as a highlight. For the classic red weaponry, I used Flesh Tearers Red and Baal Red Contrast, highlighted with Wild Rider Red . Retributor Gold shaded with Agrax Earthshade worked for the gold elements, and I had Baneblade Brown with Seraphim Sepia applied to the scrollwork and purity seals. The Liberator Gold paint from Citadel is a high-quality acrylic paint specifically formulated for miniature painting. It boasts a rich, metallic pigmentation that provides excellent coverage and a lustrous, matt finish. This paint is considered a “must-have” in a beginner’s palette, as its versatility and foundation-like quality make it an ideal base coat for layering and highlighting other colors. The pigments in this paint are carefully selected and blended to create a color that will truly make your miniatures shine, and can be seen as a cornerstone of any miniature painter’s collection. What armies to paint with Liberator Gold

The three lightest silvers (Aluminium, Chrome and Sliver) are all the same as far as I can tell. I bought and used all three, and I just cannot see any difference. The Warhammer 40K universe is full of diverse factions and armies, each with their own unique aesthetic and color scheme. When it comes to painting with Liberator Gold, there are a few armies that particularly stand out as a great fit. We live in dark times. With the Imperium shattering we need new leadership structures to come though. We need the bravest space marine legion. A legion that doesn’t specialise in running aw- Adeptus Mechanicus: The Adeptus Mechanicus is a faction of the Imperium that is heavily focused on technology and machinery. Their soldiers are heavily augmented with cybernetic enhancements, and their vehicles and weapons are often highly advanced and ornate. Liberator Gold is an excellent choice for painting the intricate details and gears of the Adeptus Mechanicus’ machinery, as it helps to bring out the metallic and technological look of their equipment.To help them stand out as more elite Space Marines I added some gold, but kept it quite muted by using Liberator Gold. For cloaks and tabards I used Dark Reaper . I also couldn’t resist scattering a few beaky helms around the rest of the miniatures as they are so iconic for the Raven Guard Chapter. Red: Mephiston Red is a deep, rich red that can be used as an analogous color to Liberator Gold. This color combo creates a sense of warmth and energy, making it perfect for highlighting the details of the metallic elements of your miniatures.