Clarik 3/16" X 25 Ft Cupro Nickel (Kunifer) Brake Pipe 1 Roll

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I taught myself pipe making. Practice makes perfect. Buy a range of end fittings, and through connectors. Also, practice double flares, and bubble flares...

I'm going for braided hoses where movement is needed, which is only from the inner wing to the suspension struts at the front and then a 3rd to the rear axle, the rest is to be solid pipes. Overhaul all front and rear callipers, new seals and including painting of the calipers + new EBC pads. I also use one of these 'power hand' type kits. Should have bought one years ago rather than struggle with one of the crappy scissor clamp types in the OP! to put it in perspective when I went to start on the brakes for the roadster 3 or so months ago I went round the big 4 or 5 motor factors (some of which are nationwide motor factors) in dundee and not 1 of them sold kunifer, they all said they havent seen it for at least 10 years or so - that means that any second car in and around the dundee area that has had brakes pipes done in 10 years or so has likely to have had copper pipes put on.While I opted for stainless steel, they also do mild steel as originally equipped, if you're going full concours.

View under car with new Kunifer lines installed, routing around the suspension chassis mount was awkward but having the old lines as templates saved the day. A few years ago, I replaced them with a full set (I mean EVERY pipe) from Classic Tube https://www.classictube.com/ Kunifer brake pipes are not only superior quality brake pipes but are also affordable because of the value they provide. It may seem expensive, but in the long term, it provides greater value than rubber and steel brake pipes. If you want affordable, you should go with Kunifer brake pipes without any hesitation. I've removed copper pipes off cars which I'd only fitted it a couple of years previously and aren't wasn't happy about reusing as they SEEMED to have aged or however you describe it.Only thing to look out for is to get the right version, there's a metric/DIN one and an imperial one. The fuel carbon filter was unbolted and moved to the side to enable better access to old pipe removal and new pipe installation. Took a small while to fiddle the old line out Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place. In this category you can view our growing range of Performance Fuel Rails and kits to provide improved and increased fuel flow capacity. As for the longevity, too soon to say the copper lines on my engines have been on for years and 1000s of miles in harsher vibration and heat than id hope brake lines would suffer and ok - lasted longer than the commercially available steel ones.

i have always used copper and never had a problem as mentioned earlier as long as its secured properly and it is flared correctly i dont see a problem, its my guess that the pipes that fail have been damaged in some way when they were fitted.brake light Decals - please PM for info. (Availabily - Z3 Pre Face Lift 7, Z3 Face Lift 1, Z4 E85 8, Z4 E89 4, Window 1.) Presumably if the pipe's made right first time (with the recommended material) and installed correctly it won't break because it hasn't been work hardened to a catastrophic degree. Rubber brake pipes are not very effective in handling wear and tear. Even steel brake pipe’s polish is affected by grime and road salt, which can puncture them. That’s where the Kunifer brake pipe stands out. It offers a much longer life span and also offers significant protection against wear and tear. 4-Affordable