GAMES WORKSHOP Citadel Pot de Peinture - Shade Coelia Greenshade (24ml), (Pack of 1), 9918995302506

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For the characters, I kept the same elements but reconfigured. The Primus is obviously quite similar to the Cultists, but the Magus trades some of the blue for his rich purple robes.

However, I could see it being useful for if you’re painting spells or perhaps even glowing blue eyes if they were detailed enough to have distinct recesses. It is, as the name suggests, highly useful for painting ice bases. The following is an update from a simple ice base recipe I made years ago.

Monochromatic Colors

I applied a second, more gentle drybrush, this time with Corax White [you can use any pure white of your choice for this, e.g. White Scar]. Again, use a soft brush and don’t overdo it to avoid a chalky finish. The bell is much the same process, though I’ll hit this with Typhus Corrosion as well to give it an aged patina.

I applied a fine edge highlight of thinned VMC White [ White Scar] to all the ghostly parts. This enhances the highlights created by the white drybrush from step 6 and adds a lot of definition. It’s an optional step, you could do it only for your characters or concentrate on focus points like face and hands only to save some time. Highlight flesh with thinned Citadel Death Guard Green and the off-white areas with Citadel Karak Stone. With new allegiance abilities in the General’s Handbook 2017, it’s a great time to start playing Nighthaunts, and our friend Tyler Mengel is on hand with an easy guide for getting striking results with minimal fuss when painting yours: Mutant Flesh: – Wash with a 50/50 mix of Coelia Greenshade/Lhamian Medium. – Apply a light 60/40 mix of Coleia Greenshade/Lhamian Medium to the more prominent crevices and separations in the alien arms. – Soft Drybrush VGC Ghost Grey with a round-tipped makeup brush, focusing on the most prominent raised edges and features (face, hands etc). Build up a few light layers on the smooth areas of the head this way to help blend into the darker skin. – Edge Highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh. My paint scheme begins as most of mine do: weird research. I knew I wanted to get out of the swamp and started researching desert amphibians. I found the Peter’s Banded Skink which looks like a lizard going through a My Chemical Romance phase and figured it’d be perfect. That led me into a broader search of skinks. My Kruleboy heroes will be painted like the Blue-Tongue Skink; this lets me carry the eyeshadow motif through the entire army and use blue as a thematic spot color. The Hobgrots adorn themselves with blue in honor of their larger, stronger master.

What might be confusing here is the uniform, where I start with Nuln to darken and desaturate it a bit before Druchii gets colour right. Highlights – Making the gribblies pop

There’s nothing like the classic concept of the walking dead. Zombies run the gamut from completely harmless to extraordinarily dangerous, depending on the storytelling involved. Often times they are a grim reminder of death, the slow growth of an ideology within a society (which is always topical), and/or a tragic and cautionary tale. Other times they sing in musicals, but we don’t talk about those here. As with all my Kruleboyz, I wanted the Hobgrots to have the pale blue flesh of creatures who aren’t accustomed to seeing much sunlight. I also figured they wouldn’t have access to a wide array of materials to make armor/clothes/kit, so there’s a very utilitarian feel to their gear. It also has the added bonus of being very efficient to paint and it helps to unify the scheme across a very diverse set of models. This scheme is very straightforward, but also very effective. I use a LOT of non-GW paints on my models. You can achieve the same results with GW paints in similar colors, I just use other paint lines and have for a long time. The exact paints are less important than the colors and the techniques! For the human skin highlight the colours are basically just moving left to right from darkest to lightest of this trio of paints. The darker skin is a couple of thin coats of Knight-Questor, then for the last highlight mixing in a touch of Cadian. The medium skin tone started with Cadian followed by mixing in a bit of Kislev for the final highlight of the medium tone. Then I reused that Cadian/Kislev mix for the initial highlight of the lightest tone that was then finished off with kislev. The hybrid skin is a couple of thin coats of Ushabti over the base coat, you can push it a touch further with screaming skull if you want. Paint the red areas with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. Drybrush the cloth with VGC Blue Grey. In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. With Halloween fast approaching, we’re looking at how to paint the spookiest monsters around. In today’s HTPE, we’re looking at how to paint the legions of the walking dead. Specifically, zombies.The lights are coated with Ushabti and then washed Iyanden, on larger things you can use Ushabti, Screaming Skull and White to do a lens effect implying the glass but that tends to be overkill on small models. I added several layers of thinned old Snot Green [ Warpstone Glow], concentrating on the upper tips of the flames.

There are three big elements here to consider: The skin/flesh, the tentacle bits, and the boils/pustules. For the most part, I tended to uniformly paint the pustules with a yellow shade – typically Averland Sunset with a dot of Flash Gitz Yellow as a highlight, before coating them in Nurgle’s Rot to give them a glossy, pussy look. If you want something less snot green, then ‘Ardcoat will work very well for this. Wash armor and weapons with a 3:1 mix of Army Painter Strong Tone and Vallejo Sepia Ink (any brown ink will do)Nurgle Daemons are perfect for a new painter – They offer a ton of variety, but they’re very forgiving and take to Contrast paint very well. We’ll talk about a few different ways to paint them, but ultimately the big things you’re going to have to figure out are how you handle grime and snot on your minis. TheChirurgeon’s Method Adding some history behind the colours, I started with Deathguard (off-white, brass and green) in my mind with millenia of rot and neglect, turning the armour a slimy mucusy green. The first thing I noticed was that the new formula feels more viscous. It is a step away from the watery runny shades we’re used to and a step towards the Contrast line. Despite being more viscous, however, it is more transparent and the pigment tends to pool better in the recesses of your model. This means that the Shades do their job of shadowing better than before while also providing less of an overall tint. Fair enough, different strokes for different folks and all that. I find I'm pretty good at judging how much wash I need at a time and have a preference for dropper bottles so there's no issue there for me. If you do accidentally get a bit too much out of your bottle at least you had more to begin with Painting zombies is mostly about painting rotting flesh, tattered clothing, and gore effects. Because they frequently feature loose skin sloughing off the body and lots of folds and wrinkles, they take very well to washes and contrast-heavy methods of painting. Mugginns’ Method – American Civil War Zombies for Dracula’s America