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Games Workshop - Citadel Colour Layer: Sybarite Green (12ml) Paint

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Squig Orange: A94F44 ● - Xereus Purple: 471F5E ● - Genestealer Purple: 7761AA ● - Warpfiend Grey: 6C6A75 Baneblade Brown: 927F6E ● - Dawnstone: 70756E ● - Administratum Grey: 949B94 ● - Eshin Grey: 4A4F53 Flayed One Flesh: CBB48B ● - Krieg Khaki: B7AD78 ● - Blue Horror: A2BAD2 ● - Lugganath Orange: F89E86 White Armour: – Wash with Apothecary White, keep an eye out for pooling in the crevices and draw it away before it sets too much. – Soft Drybrush VGC Ghost Grey with a round-tipped makeup brush. – Edge Highlight the most raised parts of the armour with White Scar. CHEMIST is Fashionably late... It's not unusual, but maybe this time she is pushing it a little. Our apologies in advance.

For the characters, I kept the same elements but reconfigured. The Primus is obviously quite similar to the Cultists, but the Magus trades some of the blue for his rich purple robes. To get river/lake looking shiny I just kinda pour some gloss varnish from the bottle on, you will want a paper clip or something to poke any bubbles. The penultimate step is painting the rims with your choice of paint, in this case I used dryad to match my Tyranids. The last model thing the models need is to throw on some tufts, I like using these ones from Gamers Grass: Ceramite White: FFFFFF ● - Averland Sunset: FCB825 ● - Jokaero Orange: EE3823 ● - Mephiston Red: 991115 The characters have a lot of gems and such, which I painted orange as a contrasting colour. Recipe-wise, the key colours are as below. In addition, most advertising networks offer you a way to opt out of targeted advertising. If you would like to find out more information, please visit http://www.aboutads.info/choices/or http://www.youronlinechoices.com.For additional weathering on vehicles, apply a coat of matt varnish all over the model, then once dry, thin down Raw Umber oil paint with mineral spirit, wash into the recesses, then very carefully wipe away any excess with a cotton bud dipped in mineral spirit. You have to be extremely careful with this part, if you rub too excessively, you run the risk of wearing away the paint underneath.

For the human skin highlight the colours are basically just moving left to right from darkest to lightest of this trio of paints. The darker skin is a couple of thin coats of Knight-Questor, then for the last highlight mixing in a touch of Cadian. The medium skin tone started with Cadian followed by mixing in a bit of Kislev for the final highlight of the medium tone. Then I reused that Cadian/Kislev mix for the initial highlight of the lightest tone that was then finished off with kislev. The hybrid skin is a couple of thin coats of Ushabti over the base coat, you can push it a touch further with screaming skull if you want. The lights are coated with Ushabti and then washed Iyanden, on larger things you can use Ushabti, Screaming Skull and White to do a lens effect implying the glass but that tends to be overkill on small models. Dark Reaper: 3C5051 ● - Thunderhawk Blue: 417175 ● - Skavenblight Dinge: 48413B ● - Stormvermin Fur: 736C66 Skrag Brown: 904A0F ● - Deathclaw Brown: B36853 ● - Tau Light Ochre: BF6E1D ● - Balor Brown: 8B5910 Leadbelcher: a silver metallic paint that can be used to highlight and add shine to specific areas.Lighten the Genestealer Flesh Mix with Pallid Wych Flesh (2:1) and layer carefully on raised areas. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?s=c770bc029dd218be5d17fff14fecefeb&showtopic=17678&st=0&p=266494&#entry266494 Gauss Blaster Green: 84C2A9 ● - Baharroth Blue: 78C4C7 ● - Dorn Yellow: E3D28C ● - Fulgrim Pink: F4AFCC

Temple Guard Blue: 329B8D ● - Kabalite Green: 028D66 ● - Sybarite Green: 30A66C ● - Warpstone Glow: 1E7332 http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. The first round of base coats are for the skin, and this is pretty much what you can see. I used Carroburg on the more evidently Tyranid hybrids and then various flesh contrasts for the more human range skin tones. Color Space Conversions Decimal 3188076 Binary 00110000, 10100101, 01101100 Hexadecimal #30a56c LRV ≈ 28.6% Closest short hex #1a6 ΔE = 2.551 RGB rgb(48, 165, 108) RGBA rgba(48, 165, 108, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.150, g: 0.514, b: 0.336 RYB red: 18.824%, yellow: 49.153%, blue: 64.706% Android / android.graphics.Color -13589140 / 0xff30a56c HSL hsl(151, 55%, 42%) HSLA hsla(151, 55%, 42%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 151° (150.769), saturation: 71% (0.709), value: 65% (0.647) HSP hue: 150.769, saturation: 70.909%, perceived brightness: 52.613% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 143.778, S: 88.726, L: 60.444 Cubehelix H: -220.419, S: 0.688, L: 0.485 TSL T: -0.997, S: 0.346, L: 0.484 CMYK cyan: 71% (0.709), magenta: 0% (0.000), yellow: 35% (0.345), key: 35% (0.353) CMY cyan: 81% (0.812), magenta: 35% (0.353), yellow: 58% (0.576) XYZ X: 17.379, Y: 28.619, Z: 18.793 xyY x: 0.268, y: 0.442, Y: 28.619 CIELab L: 60.444, a: -45.709, b: 20.446 CIELuv L: 60.444, u: -46.871, v: 34.332 CIELCH / LCHab L: 60.444, C: 50.074, H: 155.900 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 60.444, C: 58.099, H: 143.778 Hunter-Lab L: 53.497, a: -35.632, b: 16.620 CIECAM02 J: 48.786, C: 47.656, h: 156.462, Q: 137.612, M: 41.675, s: 55.031, H: 192.420 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.823, jaune: 3.324, green: 6.420 LMS L: 21.978, M: 36.468, S: 18.922 YCbCr Y: 122.080, Cb: 120.293, Cr: 80.684 YCoCg Y: 121.500, Cg: 43.500, Co: -3.000 YDbDr Y: 123.519, Db: -23.331, Dr: 143.592 YPbPr Y: 135.975, Pb: -15.045, Pr: -55.878 xvYCC Y: 132.779, Cb: 114.784, Cr: 78.915 YIQ Y: 123.519, I: -51.387, Q: -42.475 YUV Y: 123.519, U: -7.636, V: -66.254 Okhsl h: 157.429, s: 0.893, l: 0.586 Okhsv h: 157.429. s: 0.821, v: 0.672 Okhwb h: 157.429, w: 0.120, b: 0.328 Oklab l: 0.643, a: -0.124, b: 0.052 Oklch l: 0.643, c: 0.134, h: 157.429 Munsell Color System 5G 6/8 ΔE = 2.393 Brand Color Vine ΔE = 4.436 Random ColorsBeing lazy about waiting for the chipping medium to dry, since the medium behaves weirdly through the airbrush I find it tends to pool occasionally resulting in areas that take longer to dry. You can exploit this by just not quite letting it dry in those spots as it will give a good impression of a larger patch of paint falling off after a bit of gentle rubbing with a damp brush.

Ulthuan Grey: C7E0DA ● - Pallid Wych Flesh: CDCEBE ● - Russ Grey: 547588 ● - Fenrisian Grey: 709CB7

Gehenna’s Gold: D49761 ● - Auric Armour Gold: E9C278 ● - Hashut Copper: C69169 ● - Sycorax Bronze: CBB394 Her gold and teal eyes are rimmed in salmon, rose and soot and her lips of pomelo glossed and glossed again.

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